Cladding · Roof coating
A roof is the one surface where painting can be the wrong answer entirely.
Roof coating is worth doing on a sound roof and close to worthless on a failing one, and the difference is not visible from the ground. Auckland adds two complications: salt-laden air across most of the isthmus and both harbours, and the humidity that keeps a roof wet with dew long after the walls have dried.
55.1% → 6.0%
Share of days meeting every coating application limit at once in Auckland: March at its best, July at its worst. A roof is the surface most exposed to those limits, because it holds dew longest and cools fastest. Modelled from 30 years of daily records.
Open-Meteo Historical Weather API (ECMWF ERA5 / ERA5-Land reanalysis) · 1991–2020
By substrate
Four roofs, four preparations
Long-run steel (corrugate and trapezoidal profile)
Pre-painted steel, usually with a metallic coating under a factory paint system. It fails from the cut edges, the fastener penetrations, the laps, and anywhere water sits — behind a chimney, in a dead valley, under a solar panel frame. Preparation means washing, treating and spot-priming the rust back to sound metal, replacing rusted fasteners and washers rather than painting over them, and priming with an appropriate metal primer. Where the sheet is perforated, coating it does nothing.
Pressed metal tile
Thin pressed-steel tiles, often with a granular finish. Corrosion tends to start on the underside and at the overlaps where debris collects, so the surface can look better than the roof is. Foot traffic damages it. Walk boards and a genuine assessment of the underside matter more here than product choice.
Concrete tile
Porous, heavy, and usually carrying moss and lichen with roots into the surface. It needs biological treatment rather than just washing, real drying time — concrete gives water back slowly — and a penetrating sealer to bind the friable weathered surface. Expect the first coat to disappear into it. Cracked and delaminating tiles are replaced, not coated, and a tile roof that has lost a lot of surface is a replacement conversation.
Decramastic
Pressed metal tile with a bitumen coating and bonded stone chips, common on New Zealand houses from the 1960s to the 1980s. Two specific problems: loose chips, which must be removed because anything loose under the coating takes the coating with it; and bitumen bleed, which stains through waterborne coatings unless a bitumen-blocking sealer goes on first. It also dents underfoot, so access discipline is part of the specification.
The decision
Coat it, or replace it
This is the honest fork, and it is the one a roof-coating quote has an interest in not raising with you. Ask for it explicitly.
Signs it is still a coating job
- Rust that has stained but not perforated, on the flat rather than at the fasteners and laps.
- Concrete tiles that are sound and complete, with surface weathering only.
- Valleys, flashings, ridge and barge in serviceable condition.
- One previous coating at most, still adhering.
Signs it is a replacement job
- Perforation. Any hole through the sheet means the roof has been leaking, whatever the ceiling looks like.
- Corrosion concentrated at the fastener holes and the laps, which is structural rather than cosmetic.
- Concrete tiles delaminating or cracked in numbers.
- Corroded valleys or flashings — the parts that actually manage water, and the parts a coating cannot help.
- Two or three previous coatings, where the accumulated film is what is failing.
If it is replacement, that is building work and it is not this site’s job. Renovate Auckland covers the envelope work, including whether it needs consent and where a Licensed Building Practitioner is required.
Questions people actually ask
Is roof painting worth doing, or is it just cosmetic?
On a sound roof it is genuinely protective: the coating is what stands between ultraviolet light, salt and rain and the substrate underneath, and on pressed metal tile and long-run steel it is the difference between surface staining and corrosion taking hold. On a roof that has already lost section — perforated steel, cracked or delaminating concrete tile, failed valleys or flashings — coating it is cosmetic and it buys you very little. The assessment has to come before the decision.
How do I know if my roof needs replacing instead of painting?
Signs that push it toward replacement: rust that has perforated the sheet rather than just stained it; corrosion at the fastener holes and along the laps rather than only on the flat; concrete tiles that are delaminating, cracked in numbers, or have lost so much surface that they are visibly porous; valleys or flashings that have corroded through; and a roof that has already been coated two or three times, where the accumulated film is what is failing. The test that decides it is someone competent walking the roof, not someone looking at it from the lawn or from a drone photo.
What is Decramastic and why is it treated differently?
Decramastic is a pressed-metal tile with a bitumen coating and a bonded stone-chip finish, widely installed in New Zealand from the 1960s to the 1980s. It is treated differently for two reasons. The chips come loose as the bitumen ages and any loose chip under a coating takes the coating with it, so the preparation is mostly about removing the loose material. And the bitumen bleeds through waterborne coatings as brown staining unless a bitumen-blocking sealer is used. Its other quirk is that it is easily dented — walking a Decramastic roof carelessly damages it, so access and foot-traffic discipline are part of the job.
Does concrete tile need to be sealed before painting?
Yes. Weathered concrete tile is porous and often friable at the surface, and it usually carries decades of moss and lichen with roots into the surface. After washing and biological treatment it needs a penetrating sealer or primer to bind the friable surface before any topcoat, and the tile has to be genuinely dry — concrete holds water far longer than the surface appearance suggests. Concrete tile also drinks the first coat, so the litres are well above the nominal spreading rate.
Can a roof be water-blasted?
It is standard practice on concrete tile and on sound steel, and it is where a lot of damage gets done. High pressure on a corroded steel roof drives water under the laps and into the ceiling space, high pressure on Decramastic strips chips wholesale, and high pressure on old fibre-cement roofing is a serious hazard because that material may contain asbestos — see the fibre-cement page. Pressure suited to the substrate, gutters and downpipes managed so the runoff does not go into your stormwater untreated, and internal ceilings checked afterwards.
Do roof coatings make a house cooler?
A lighter, higher-reflectance colour does reduce the heat load on the roof space compared with a dark one — that is straightforward physics. How much difference it makes to how the house feels depends on the ceiling insulation, the ventilation of the roof space and the construction, so any specific percentage you see quoted for energy saving should be treated with suspicion unless it comes with the assumptions attached. We do not have a New Zealand dataset for that effect on real houses, so we are not going to give you a number.
When can roof coating actually be done in Auckland?
The same application limits apply as for walls, and roofs are harder because they hold dew longest and cool fastest after sundown. That compresses the working day at both ends: you cannot start until the surface has come clear of dew point, and you have to stop early enough that the film is through before dew forms again. The Auckland model shows how few days a month meet all the limits at once, and roof work sits at the tight end of that.
Related
Roof work is more weather-constrained than wall work, so read the Auckland application-window model before you plan around a date. If your roof is old fibre-cement rather than metal or concrete, go to the fibre-cement page first — that is an asbestos question before it is a painting one.